Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Vietnam-Cat Ba-Ha Long Bay-Moody Beach PART 1 (Day 55)

In the morning we headed out on the boat.  It was pretty awesome as it ended up being 9 independent climbers (i.e. self guided) and only one SloPony client which was cool to be out on the bay with other climbers verses a bunch of gumbies. 
Out on the bay we passed lots of floating fishing villages.  Our goal for the day climbing was the new 4 pitch 6b Screw Loose on Tiger Beach.  The SloPony guys recommended we climb on Moody Beach in the morning and then Tiger Beach in the afternoon to give the multi-pitch more time.
To get off the big boat and onto the beach we took a little basket boat.
Moody Beach has 6 climbs currently: 5.7, 2 5.8, 5.9, 6a, and 6b.  We wanted to climb them all as they were short so I started with Khong Co Gi the 5.7.
Anja then wanted to get on Barefoot Vietnamese 6b with a great looking roof.  It was really sharp hold on the roof but super good.
I got on led too on the right there.
I onsited it without too much grunting or crying about how sharp the holds were.
We then climbed Mao De 5.8 to the left quick.
Then we headed over to the right side of the beach and did Do it for Billie Joel 5.8 on the right and
Routine Heaven 6a in the middle.

Anja on the 6th climb of the morning the 5.8 on the left.
Our new friend Urs on lead on the 6a.
We then headed back to the boat and had lunch with Urs and two swedish climbers.  Part 2 of the day to come.

1 comment:

dvdbrnco said...

i really feel for you guys...having to climb routes with sharp holds. must be tough. ; )