Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Thailand-Phi Phi Don-Climbing Hin Tak (Day 26)

We were debating between going to drinking water wall (30 minute walk) or trying to catch a longtail to go climb at Oyster Blade with a four pitch route I really wanted to do.  100 baht each for the longtail ride and no walking, Ram was in.
We hoped this longtail right in front of the restraunt we ate lunch at and were headed off.  The boat quickly went past the Oyster Blade and we ended up further in the bay at Hin Tak wall.  That’s ok there is a bunch of good looking climbing at Hin Tak including a 5 pitch route called Happy Banana 5.11a I really wanted to do.  Ram talked to the boatman and got him to come back at 6 pm when we hoped to be off the route.
Hin Tak (broken rock in thai) is now the home of Ao Ling (Monkey Bay in thai) and monkeys there were.  Luckily, the start of the climb was 40 ft of 5.5 to a big ledge so we took everything up there and clipped it in.
171602_10100290823818556_2517819_59685624_5106690_oI led off on the first pitch up a dihedral and it went pretty straight forward at about 5.10a.
170783_10100290824377436_2517819_59685635_7667815_oAnja fired of pitches 3 and 4 together to a nice huge belay ledge.  172835_10100290824636916_2517819_59685649_428606_o
The climb had some great views of the bay and stupid tourists.  About every 5 minutes longtail boat would come in with tourist.  THEY WERE NUTS!!!!  All these people would climb out of the boat and walk into a herd of monkeys.  About every 5th person hanging out in a bunch of monkeys would scream and run away they were getting scratched and bite.  SCATCHY! 
The 4th pitch was really tough, Anja had to hang and Ram and I pulled on the quickdraws through the crux.  We would have got it but we were rushing a little at this to make it back to the beach to met boatman.  Right…
The huge belay ledge at the base of pitch 5.
Our anchor was good but had some reminants of the legendary bad bolts of thailand.
172359_10100290824292606_2517819_59685631_4231791_oThe last pitch was incredible.  One of the coolest pitches I have ever done.  The top of the pitch ends about 20 ft out from the belay 200’ ft directly over the beach.  171636_10100290824332526_2517819_59685633_5124435_o
This means when you lower off you have to get pulled back into the belay.  Otherwise, you’d just dangle above the beach.
Headed down on rappel, opps its already 6.
Luckily the longtail boatman hungout even though we were late getting down.  Also since it was low tide we couldn’t get out to the boat without swimming but a fisherman with a kayak gave us a ride out to the boat.  What a fun day of climbing and longtails!!!

No comments: