The weather was cold but looked climbable. We’d picked up the guidebook the night before and the Wine Bottle seemed one of the closest and easiest spots to climb so we rented two bikes from our hotel and headed over there. We had heard something about locals charging to climb but were not sure what the deal was there, plus paying didn’t seem like a big deal to us, especially after Vietnam. The directions said watch for the gaudy concrete butterfly directly across from the cliff.
Well I didn’t quite expect this but we were sure we were in the right spot.
At the base of the cliff there were weird sign and spray paint. Who knows what all this means? No one else was there so we just decided to climb.
The left side of the wine bottle.
We started on Miracle of Lankou, The 5.9 and then headed up Shu Ba Jie 5.10a to the left of it. The climbs were tough and technical and we were suddenly very gun shy. No more climbing 6c for us.
We got on Slack 5.10b which was great but still hard.
Then we did a climb without a name that I call tuffa seat. Name? (Tuffa Seat) 5.10b
I thought it was an awesome climb as you grab this rail of tuffa flow stone and pitched to gain a rest against a tuffa. Way cool!
To wrap up the day we top roped Happy Ending 5.10d. It was wicked hard at 5.10d more like 5.11b. I could barely hall myself up the climb on top rope. We headed home after that and happy we had not gotten bothered to pay.
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