Tuesday, April 26, 2011

China-Yangshuo-The Egg (Day 73)

We had heard the two new places to go were White Mountain and the Egg so we headed out to the Egg sharing a mini-bus with some other climbers going to White Mountain.  We were joined by this Spanish guy and a Chinese woman.  It was nice to be headed out climbing with some other people.  The Spanish guy was kind an odd guy and wanted to barrow 3 draws from us but then companied about the draws we had that they were not safe and too small.  So I made a draw of two junk bail biners we had and he seemed happy with those biners.

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The Egg.  The hike in was pretty nice and great scenery again.

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The North East Face of the Egg.

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The North Face of the Egg.

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We headed over to the West Face of the Egg as the Spanish guy wanted to go over there so we started on Handsaw Returns 5.10a.  Spaniard being strange again on the climb next to us.  Apparently his rope had been cut a few times and was now only 52 meters so to get down from the 27 meter climb he tied the end of our rope on to the end of his.  Whatever.

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Views from the ledge at the base of the West Face were great!

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I wanted to move a little away from the Spaniard so we moved right to Pulling Perfection 5.10c a two smiley face route in the guidebook.  After Anja led the Spaniard came over and wanted on our climb or to use our rope to do another climb and for me to climb on his rope.  I told him I wasn’t climbing on his rope and I was doing this climb as our draws were hanging on it.  “Well this is the only climb I can do here.  Do you want me to have to wait?”  Ken: “I don’t care what you do but we are on this climb.”  At this point I was wishing we were just climbing alone and not saving the 40 Yuan ($6.50) on the mini-bus.  Whatever, I just climbed.

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We then got on Helter Incendo 5.10c to the right of the pervious route.  The lower part of the route was really great pumpy and steep moved but the last section at the top got a little runout and really sharp.

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After that the Spaniard wanted to go back to the North faces so we followed them over there.  Once we got over there they decided it was too cold and were heading back to Yangshuo.  We asked the Chinese woman if she could call Ting from Rock Abond who was at White Mountain to send a mini-bus for us at 6 pm and that we’d meet them on the main road.  It was cold and she didn’t have a down jacket so I didn’t blame her.

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We were feeling bold after on-sighting 5.10c without a problem at the Egg so I encouraged Anja to get on Poser's Lonely Reunion 5.10d, a two smiley face guidebook route and 3.5 start mountain project route.  It was really good but a little too strenuous with the bolt a little too far apart for Anja to get the on-sight.  She almost even backed off and asked if I wanted to try leading it from her high point.  I said ok and that way all the encouragement she needed to give it another effort and push through to the anchors.

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I was feeling really tired and wiped after following Anja’s 5.10d but jumped on Rooster Booster 5.10a 31 meter route with a tough bouldery start.

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This route just kept going and was really fun!  After getting down we packed up hoping we would find a mini-bus picking us up at 6 pm.  At 5:55 pm we very nervously turned down a ride from some other climbers going back from the Egg assuming Ting had been called that she would be looking for us and didn’t want to leave them hanging.  We were relieved at 6:07 when Ting and Abond pulled up in the mini-bus.

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