Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Turkey- Magara (Day 114)

We again asked around about recommendations and were suggested the Cave about Climber’s Garden.  We checked out the guidebook and the cave had about 4 routes which sounded really nice.  Anja was laughing about a section in the guidebook about “not sun bathing at the crag” and “please remember this is a Muslim country and the locals may not be comfortable with climbers in bikinis.  Climbing in bikinis were pretty common but we’d never seen people sunbath at the crag.  Anja asked who would do this?
Sarkit on the left and Magara on the right.  The approach was easy about 10 minutes on the road and then 10 minutes on trail.
Magara looked really cool as we approached and not too busy.
Anja lead up Muhtar 5.9 without much problem.  It was kind of funny as she was climbing it was like the time in at 1-2-3 wall when I would look up at Anja and then look down and there would be another guide group.  The only difference this time it was Swedish people.  We soon were sharing the cave with about 15 Sweds. 
Well we found out about the sunbathing as a number of the Swedish women got to the crag and stripped down to bikinis to hangout on the warm rocks.
We were able to squeeze onto Mum Isiginda Yemek (left) 5.10c a 6b which didn’t look like much from the ground.
Once you got higher up and pulled onto the roof of the cave it got real good quick but I again missed a 6b onsight due to a hard anchor climb.  This was becoming all to common in Turkey and kind of a drag to have such hard anchor clips.
There were too many people in the cave so we shifted over to Sarkit to try a 6b+ tufa route we’d seen others on earlier.
The route was called Saxafon 5.11a/b and not any harder than the 7a from the day before but was just awesome with tufa features.  Anja came close to the onsight but couldn’t get the anchors clipped without hanging.
My effort on the climb was far lesser hanging at ever bolt but I still had a really fun climb and clipped the anchors no problem!  Oh wait that was because Anja had extended them with about 4 quickdraws.  Thanks baby.
Views from the crag.
We were pretty tired at that but I still jumped on Working Class 5.10b.  It was a kind of thin and balancy with a little hard, you guessed it, clip to the anchors.  Anja was done for the day and just ran up it on top rope and expressed she would not like leading the thin section.

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