Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Greece-Kalymnos-Zeus (Day 143)



We headed up to the sector Zeus.  It didn’t hold any easy climbing and only a few moderate climbs so we figured it would be a short day.


We started on Ganymede which was 6b and pretty much the easiest climb there.


It had a thin dihedral move at the top and was pretty fun.


We then headed over to get on La Mouette Genereuse 6b but some other climbers had stuck their rope on Kalyfornication 6b+ so we headed up that to help them out.


I tried hard at the crux but had to hang and rest due to the steep overhanging move at the end of the pitch missing another 6b+.


We were watching some other climbers on Blonde, James Blonde 6c and I got motivated to try it.  It had a strange first crux getting to the second ledge and felt kind of runout.  It was a really high reach to a good hold in the back of a lip but you couldn’t see it and just kind of had to throw to it.  I had to downclimb and hang on my first try but got it the second time.


The ending move and second crux was really fun.  It was a big throw and nearly a dyno (dynamic move: when you jump or hurdle your body above where you could pull statically).  I didn’t make it the first time but the second time I threw and I got the hold and my hand just stuck and held on. 

When Anja went to led it she didn’t like the runout first crux so I did it again.  Unfortunately the days climbs had rung their toll on my and at the first crux I slipped off and took a fall.  I got a little rope burn on my leg for my lack of focus.  I got back on and shot all my energy to the top.  To bad I wasn’t too far from red pointing the climb.


That was it for me for the day and we headed back to the hotel.

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