Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Vietnam-Cat Ba-Ha Long Bay-Moody Beach PART 1 (Day 55)

In the morning we headed out on the boat.  It was pretty awesome as it ended up being 9 independent climbers (i.e. self guided) and only one SloPony client which was cool to be out on the bay with other climbers verses a bunch of gumbies. 
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Out on the bay we passed lots of floating fishing villages.  Our goal for the day climbing was the new 4 pitch 6b Screw Loose on Tiger Beach.  The SloPony guys recommended we climb on Moody Beach in the morning and then Tiger Beach in the afternoon to give the multi-pitch more time.
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To get off the big boat and onto the beach we took a little basket boat.
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Moody Beach has 6 climbs currently: 5.7, 2 5.8, 5.9, 6a, and 6b.  We wanted to climb them all as they were short so I started with Khong Co Gi the 5.7.
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Anja then wanted to get on Barefoot Vietnamese 6b with a great looking roof.  It was really sharp hold on the roof but super good.
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I got on led too on the right there.
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I onsited it without too much grunting or crying about how sharp the holds were.
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We then climbed Mao De 5.8 to the left quick.
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Then we headed over to the right side of the beach and did Do it for Billie Joel 5.8 on the right and
Routine Heaven 6a in the middle.
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Anja on the 6th climb of the morning the 5.8 on the left.
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Our new friend Urs on lead on the 6a.
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We then headed back to the boat and had lunch with Urs and two swedish climbers.  Part 2 of the day to come.

1 comment:

dvdbrnco said...

i really feel for you guys...having to climb routes with sharp holds. must be tough. ; )